Surfing and Sunning
Went surfing today for the first time in months. Water temp was around 75, waves were two to three feet when they finally showed up and the beach wasn't crowded. We surf at PB below Diamond Street, a beach break in between the better waves of Crystal Pier and Tourmaline. I like it because it's a lot less populated than either of the above and I hates crowds, I does, my precioussss....Yessssss....
ANYway, it was a good day. I managed to catch a couple of unbroken waves among my white water adventures and had what I consider a minor miracle occur after an unspectacular wipe-out. My contact lens popped out and I caught it before it hit the water. AND I put it back in my eye without a problem. This is only the second time I've had one of my lenses come out while surfing, but what are the odds of catching the damn thing before it's gone forever in the waves? Consider soft lenses, little semi-transparent squishy things the size of the tip of a finger falling out in the largest body of water on the planet. Yup, it's my surfing miracle.
So...surfing, sunning in the pool, walking at the bay... so far, so good. I've done a little socializing (saw my friend Pam, who I have not seen since we were both in our early '20s. No, I will not tell you how many years it's been), but have mainly caught up on 'me' time. The luxury of not having to make coffee for anyone but myself, not having to answer phones or deal with daily problems at work has been...well...luxurious. Decadent, really. I've done a little writing, but boy, have those muscles atrophied! Oh well, a little mental exercise every day, along with my TRXing and surfing and walking and lying on a raft in the pool...
Life is good.
ANYway, it was a good day. I managed to catch a couple of unbroken waves among my white water adventures and had what I consider a minor miracle occur after an unspectacular wipe-out. My contact lens popped out and I caught it before it hit the water. AND I put it back in my eye without a problem. This is only the second time I've had one of my lenses come out while surfing, but what are the odds of catching the damn thing before it's gone forever in the waves? Consider soft lenses, little semi-transparent squishy things the size of the tip of a finger falling out in the largest body of water on the planet. Yup, it's my surfing miracle.
So...surfing, sunning in the pool, walking at the bay... so far, so good. I've done a little socializing (saw my friend Pam, who I have not seen since we were both in our early '20s. No, I will not tell you how many years it's been), but have mainly caught up on 'me' time. The luxury of not having to make coffee for anyone but myself, not having to answer phones or deal with daily problems at work has been...well...luxurious. Decadent, really. I've done a little writing, but boy, have those muscles atrophied! Oh well, a little mental exercise every day, along with my TRXing and surfing and walking and lying on a raft in the pool...
Life is good.
2 Comments:
At 8:06 PM, freethoughtguy said…
A wise man -- Duke Kahanamoku (or was it Jeff Spicoli?) -- once said:
All I need are some tasty waves,
a cool buzz ... and I'm fine.
You got it, girl!
At 9:08 PM, Dana Fredsti said…
Jeff Spicoli sounds about right to me! And you DO know that the inspiration for that character went to Clairement (Ridgemont) High, which is about five minutes away from the house here!
Post a Comment
<< Home